DOUG'S 'HEAVY METAL' GALLERY

 

T A N K SC A R R I E R SG U N SA R M O U R E D   C A R S


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"BELTRING 2000" will the weather be like this this year?

Again I start this news letter with a big thank you to all of the contributors, also many thanks to the ones who also sent me enough photocopies to use in, this issue.

well no doubt like me you are just about fed up with the weather and the Foot and Mouth restrictions (doesn't apply to you foreign members). At long last it looks like I will be taking my Ferret out, first to my daughters school fayre and in the middle of June to the show at Thruxton. My Ferret has sat in the garage since Christmas but started with no problem last week thanks to I believe the battery isolator switch I fitted last year.

The beginning of this year hasn't been completely void of "Green Machine" activities for me as I have been helping Tom Hammill with the purchase and delivery, to the USA: of a Fox which hopefully Tom will have by the time this



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news letter drops on your mat. If you think a Ferret's batteries are awkward to fit then try fitting batterias in a Fox!
I have also bought a Champ which my wife took a liking to and I will be using it as a support vehicle at shows - so any Champ spares out there?

If anyone is thinking of employing Nigel Chandler for any reason whatsoever please phone me first - Andrew Noyce 023 80 24314.

John Pearson has come up with an idea of perhaps starting an "emergency telephone list" of members who would turn out and help with Ferret breakdowns in local areas. This would be quite a comfort on a long journey if someone was only a phone call and a few miles away.
If you are interested then please get in touch with me, Andrew Noyce 023 80 254314 or John Pearson 01902 423917.

___________________________________________________________________________

All answers gratefully received !!!!!

When I first bought my ferret (00 DC 15) I read the Military operators manual and attempted to do everything correctly including grounding the vehicle when filling up with petrol here is the wording:

WARNING: 2 WHEN FILLING RUBBER TYRED VEHICLES WITH LARGE QUANTITIES OF FUEL, THERE IS CONSIDERABLE DANGER OF FIRE FROM THE DISCHARED OF STATIC ELECTRICITY. IN ORDER TO RELEASE THESE CHARGES BEFORE FILLING UP, THE HULL SHOULD BE EARTHED BY LEANING A CROWBAR BETWEEN THE HULL & GROUND, OR BY DROPPING ONE END OF THE TOWROPE ON THE GROUND WHILE THE OTHER END REMAINS OF THE VEHICLE. THIS PRECAUTION IS MOST ESSENTIAL WHEN FILLING FROM PUMPS.

After a few times I got bored with grounding it a decided it's not particularly different to a forward control Landrover (which you never ground).
So for the next 100 or so times I didn't bother probably like many other Ferret owners
(This is not a good plan as I & some innocent car owners discovered last week).
So I was on my way to London to have dinner with friends & thought I'd take the ferret, I had half a tank of fuel & stopped at a petrol station to top up the tank. I was kneeling on the rear side bin looking in to the tank & filling up when I got to about £27.00 a flame appeared in the tank within milli seconds there was a loud whoosh a dull thud of an explosion and & a fire ball rising up my left arm to the garage roof, I then thought o.k. I'm dead in seconds, but thank god the air fuel ratio wasn't corect for an explosion, so now I'm stood there with a large flame burning out of the fuel tank & the filler gun still in the filler, I decided I had to take the gun out so the hose wouldn't burn, so I pulled it out & chucked it (on fire) on the forecourt way from the vehicle & pumps, which sprayed lit fule on the forecourt towards a mini behind me I then cleared every one out of the petrol station & shut down the pumps & we called the fire brigade, they turned up within 15



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minutes & put out the fire.
Luckily there was no damage to anything or anyone in the area. Since then I have tried to find the cause of the fire from most people linked to the army, fire departments, petroleum office etc.
The findings are as follows:

1) Did the heat of the exhaust ignite fuel vapour - 99% no, normally fuel vapour boils off when coming in contact with extreme heat, it's only likely to combust if you pour petrol on an exhaust, & anyway though it's difficult to say for sure I am 99% certain the ignition occurred in the fuel tank.
2) Did an electrical spark set of the fuel vapour - 99% no, I've checked out the vehicle & found nothing to support that.
3) Was it the antenna touching the roof- the garage & fire brigade think it likely that it was as they believe that there is a charge in the roof, I personally do not believe this theory but to be safe in future I would advise anyone filling a ferret to tie down the aerials.
4) Was it a static build up in the fuel tank caused by filling - 99% yes, when you fill a vehicle the fuel entering the tank will build up static in the fuel tank & then the static will jump to the gun because it is the only ground point away from the vehicle causing a spark & igniting vapour, interestingly I was talking to an old armoured car driver when I told him it had caught fire whilst filling it he said I bet you didn't have it grounded & went on to say he saw one catch fire due to that.
So my advise is simple ground the vehicle & tie the aerials down before filling, when grounding you must get a very good contact with the vehicle & ground otherwise if you don't static will earth via the route with the least resistance i.e the fuel gun. I have crimped a ring connector to a piece of wire bolted that to one of the fuel filler neck bolts & bolted a metal plate on the other end & when I fill the vehicle I drop that on the floor & add water (to get a good contact between the metal plate & ground), your probably thinking that's over the top I won't bother with that but if you'd been with me that night & seen what I did you defiantly would.

James Kohout



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For Sale

Ferret wheel and tyre(like new)               £130 00
Used exhaust but servicable                    £25.00
Exhaust covers                                      £12.00
Ferret thermos flask (black)                    £20.00
No. 19 set (tidy and working) )               £110.00
R210 C11 combo (working)                   £280.00
C42 complete (working)                        £245.00
Portable radiation detector                     £15.00
Windscreen frame (no rubber)               £20.0O
Parts list etc.                                        POA
Tank Regiment transfers                       £3.00



David Hadwen 015242 61945



FOR SALE

Mk 1 Ferret 1953

This Ferret was restored to good condition by me several years ago, but has just been fully restored. This restoration has included the replacement of around 200 components, parts that were fitted regardless of whether they were required or not. These parts include a complete set of brand new bins and wings. The vehicle has been restored to OE factory spec. for the early ferret as it was when they were first manufactured. It is by far the most detailed & comprehensive restoration I have ever done and many now be amongst the top 5 Ferrets in teh world. It is offered for sale with a massive amount of kit all in A1 condition. Kit can include Bren (forward mounted) .30cal (rear mounted) Sten in bkt. You will not find another ferret for sale that comes anywhere near this, but obviously this is reflected in the price.
With all guns £8000
Without guns £7250
Interested. Phone John Dews on Daytime 07949765936
Evenings ) 19 24403150




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WILL I EVER GET IT RIGHT (5) ? (probably not)

Here is a repair that is both easy and frequently needed: stowage bin dents. The sides, if crumpled badly are really a job for a skilled panel beater, but, that said, the amateur can certainly achieve something of an improvement. The golden rules are: small hammers, lots of light blows and the piece being hammered needs an anvil of some kind on the other side, for example a hammer head that is preferably about twice as heavy at least as the striking hammer. All I can say is practice makes perfect, and practising on something like an old ammunition box is a good idea. Having said that, do not knock yourself out Looking for absolute perfection, after all it is an AFV not a Silver Ghost and the dents, however caused are still part of the genuine history ot your vehicle.

When you are drivings on the public highway, how do you doal with the ' gun' problem? Seems the choice is either to fit the 30cal (or GPMG) or to leave the hole empty. The former can get you a very happy tour with a Policeman by the side of the road if you are lucky or a pedestrian kebab if you are not. The latter looks odd and unfinished. The solution I use is a piece of poly water pipe, sprayed black and held in with an aeroelastic strap. From a bit of a distance or while moving it looks ' OK' (or at least better than nothing) But once stopped it is obviously not a danger to anyone. You need to keep re-applying the paint because it does not really stick and the tube needs to be short enough to hide in the side bin to avoid death threats from modellers when at a show. By the way, I once stopped by an urchin having just arrived ata show and he said in an awed tone to urchin no 2 "Good God, look at the size of bullet this thing fires". I did not have the heart to tell him it was a bit of plastic tube.

The local DIY store had a special olfer on the BOSCH 240v scraper so one was purchased to try to remove Artex from a ceiling. Result was a ceiling with a lot of gouges in it and a new coat of Artex to cover the



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damage. Scraper was thrown to ono side, money apparently wasted, Later I decided to try it on Army paint that was about 4mm thick on a Ferret that had had about 12 annual repaints while it was on a plinth. The results were tremendous, quick, easy, controllable and of course it runs off an extension lead rather than an air line. I do not get a backhander for this bit ot advertising but if a representative from the coumpany wants to give me enough money I will say nice things about any of their other products.

In a previous issue I sang the praises of the Arrny issue windscrseen and still heartily recommend same. Using it however leaves one with a bit of a dilemma: what do you do about the other hatches? If you leave the front side ones open it rather defeats the object in that cold air and rain still rush through but if you close them then you seriously restrict your view, particularly at junctions. You can do the open/close/open/close routine as required but it is a bit of a pain. What you need to do is to cut some perspex (plexiglass) inserts that fit into the ledge in the armour, elastic and hooks to hold it in place and leave those in most of the time. I realise that this is quite a well known idea and I do not claim credit for it but there might be someone out there who has not seen it before! It is difficult to come up with all this rubbish you know, issue after issue. I am sure YOU can do better, so have a go! )

One original idea I had recently happened completely by chance. You see, I am probably the poorest MV owner you are ever likely to meet and the money that should be invested in a car for daily transport is actually tied up in armoured vehicles. As a result I drive around in a series of scrap yard escapees until they inevitably fail the MOT then they get replaced with another one, so long as it costs less than £lO0. My last but one just went to the crusher (A Montego which I payed £75 for and drove it from 102O00 miles to 157000 miles on the clock without trouble). Ah I can hear you asking, what the B... hell has this got to do with Ferrets??? Patience please, I am just (eventually) getting to it. Anyway, one last nostalgic look under the bonnet and there it was: windscreen washer bottle. Now the windscreen on the Ferret cries out for a squirter but where do you get a 24v one cheap? Answer: from a Montego! It has 2xl2volt ones, if they are wired in series then the result is a 24v squirt at double the volume! Cheap as well, just like me. Gives plenty ot water from two jets and the reservoir is big enough to last but small enough to hide.

As well as Ferrets, I and also drive tracked vehicles and I have a plan for making the 6Oth Anniversary of D. Day which amongst other things entails commanding a vehicle (or driving it, nor decided yet) in a situation where the driver is completeiy blind for a period and needs to drive very precisely in difficult circumstances. In order to try this out we have been driving/commanding a Ferret, by intercom when the driver has a bag on his head. All I can say is give it a try if you REALLY want to frighten yourself but do it in a big field! You also need to rig up a commander ignition cut out as well. By the way, the MVT came in for some flak recently about that suggestion. . . . . what do you think'?



John Pearson



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LITERATURE There is an attraction to doing your own repairs but it you have always had a Main Dealer service your car then the average Ferret owner can feel a bit out of his or her depth. Even if you do know a bit, then the first look will be enough to frighten most people off, I mean nothing looks like you expect does it? Where is the ignition distributor and ignition wiring? fuel pump? air cleaner? Why does the dipstick not go into the engine? Why does it have about half a dozen fanbelts?

Do not despair! I do all of my own repairs and I never even did metalwork at school so if I can do it it must be really simple or I would mess it up even more than I do!

Some people have a motto "If all else fails then read the instructions" (Both of my sons come to mind here). As with any complex piece of machinery however, the first step is READ THE BOOK. You cannot really read up too much beforehand. (A very good idea is to photocopy any literature and use the copy to avoid damage) I would suggest you start at the beginning with a quite general book on how 4 stroke engines work, along with some information about general metalwork if you are like me when I started (Note 1).

The next thing I got was a servicing schedule (Note 2). This shows the necessary checks and levels and what to put into each filler. It is also a fair explanation of what each bit is, This does not contain enough information to do repairs however so later, move on to the Drivers handbook (Note 3). This will explain with diagrams, most of what you need to maintain and fix Ferrets. If it is not in the drivers handbook then you are really getting into some difficult areas, and would be the sort of jobs Where the properly trained Army driver would send for the REME, Although it does contain pictures and diagrams, it does not really explain constructional details, neither does it explain "why", just "how".

The next thing to get is the parts list. (Note 4) This will show you exploded diagrams of everything and also give sizes and threads of bolts, thickness of packing etc. You will also find that bearings and seals sometimes have an Army number made up from the makers part number and a bearing supplier might be able to identify replacements directly. This only applies to earlier parts listings however, once computers came in they were renumbered with random 10 digit numbers and these are useless as they do not relate to anything.

You might consider getting the EMERS, (Eiectricai and Mechanical Engineers Regulations)(Note 5) which are really full of the most incredible detail to explain how to do job; that quite frankly you need an engineering works to complete and a full engineering apprentiship to understand. It is true however that if have the full set and the tools and skills you could probably restore a Ferret without having one to start with, ie you could make one from scratch!



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There is a lot more literature available, for excample the CES (Complete Equipment Schedule), This may be in effect the stowage diagram written out (Note 6) or a parts list for an accessory (eg Radio), (Note 7) and stowage diagrams themselves (Note 8) themselves are always useful but you must remember that they do relate to a particular date I hope this will be useful in tracking down the correct books. If you have any queriies please write to me with an SAE to 8, Albert Road, Wolverhampton, West Midlands WV6 OAE and I will try to help.

John Pearson



EXAMPLES OF LITERATURE MENTIONED:

Note 1

General information about mechanical vehicles:
eg Manual ofs Driving and maintenance for mechanical
vehicles (Wheeled), 1937, 26/man/1472 or
General mechanical principles of tracked and wheeled
vehicles 1953, WO 8791, or possibly something even more basic
migsht be usetful, for example the old AA Book ot the Car.

Note. 2,
Ferret Service guide:
Scout Car Ferret, Mk 1 and 2 Maintenance schedule
Army code 14000, 1980 or 1984

Note. 3,
Drivers handbook
Scout Car Ferret, Al1 marks user Handbook, Army code
12174, 1957 or 1969

Note. 4,
Parts list
Illustrated Parts List for 5cout Car Ferret Marks 1,
1/1, 2, 2/3, 2/6. Army code 14992 1968

Note. 5,
EMERS: all in range V622 - V629 or the Australian J
versions (Almost identical) N403 - N405

Note. 6, Stowage Diagram
Ferret Mkl: W) 10766, FV 221886
Ferret Mk2: WO 13278, (supercedes 10820) FV260849

Note. 7, CES (VEHICLE)
Army code 33044

Note. 8, CES (C42 and B47 RADIOS)
Army code 42636



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Ferret Jottings

On MOT's

When I purchased my Ferret MK1 it was un-registered and prior to collection it was a condition that it was road legal. It was registered as a rigid bodied saloon and as a consequence as that equates to a car I have always MOT'd it, however I have been told that it as a MKl does weigh under 3000Kg. When the initial MOT ran out I took it to several testing stations who all refused to test it, I finally found a small garage a few minutes from home who have carried out the test for the last 4 years.

I have tried to ascertain if it needs an MOT or if its exempt and to be frank the DVLC have not been any help. The only suggestion they have made is to take it to a station with a DVLC inspector who may be able to classify the vehicle. If you look at the reminder slip for the tax on a historic vehicle you may see that an MOT is not required just the payment and the insurance documents, I checked with the DVLC and they say this is an error on there computer, it does not mean no MOT, as far as I am aware they are not going to resolve the computing, so get it MOT'd. This appears to be the same issue for any historic vehicle so the assumption could be made that you could claim exemption, this could be a nasty legal trap.

As a courtesy to my tester and his 3000 ramp I used to remove all the kit to lower the weight, for the last two years I haven' t done this and the ramp still lifts Ferret without protest!

For advice I did try the team from the DVLC who attend many classic car events and they haven't got a clue. In fact they where really trying to sell cherished numbers and registrations.

The other issue is that many MOT ramps can only raise a vehicle of 2500kg, so find one with a 3000Kg + ramp. When my Ferret is tested the examiner gives it a brief once over, lights,horn etc and passes it. He does not test the brakes on the rolling road for obvious reasons. With regard to using the "Tapping" a decelarommeter he refuses to use this, he is too frightened to go out in the Ferret. His words are usually "do the brakes work", yes "now F--- off for another year"! For testing the suspension and steering he simply has me waggle the steering to show up any play! And that's the test. totally pointless. but in case of any argument with the constables broadly speaking it vas OK at time of testing.

I took the vehicle to wrork as our workshops can MOT this ramp was 25OOKg and so the test was not possible. Next to this ramp is an 8 tonne lift. The obvious was to use this: not possible for technical reasons an MOT ramp has to be to a specific design. .Apparently this is to do with the position of the run off rails on the lift. The workshop supervisor is ex REME and would have liked to do the test and have a play but the regulations forbid it.

I did try a few garages that carry out the test on vehicles over 3500 and none would carry out the test! If I get to a point at sorne time when no one will test it. I will simply exempt it myself with the appropriate form. I did try to advise the examiners using the following criteria.

Using the test check form discount all the not applicable i.e. seatbelts, windscreen, wipers the list is pretty extensive of non-relevant items. Test the rest and if you can't or wont i.e. the brakes mark the forrn as not applicable or unchecked. Issue the MOT against the standard as checkable. The examiners where all just not interested or prepared to test under these circumstances.



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Of course being registered as a car, no road tax! ,

ATF Fluids

I have always assumed as the fluid flyheel is no more than a torque converter as used on most auto transmissions ATF fluid would be OK. I have had my flywheel filled with this for 5 years since a recon unit was fitted. It never gives any problems and I put in about a thimble full at each lube service, no sign of any seal problems as yet!

Exhausts

When my exhaust finally exploded in a cloud of rust Ferret exhausts where in short supply. R+R services sold me a reproduction item they have made. The steel gauge is doubled and the quality on my one is superb. This exhaust has now been in use for about 3 years and is still excellent. Someone once told me that the repros blow out their baffles, B---s mine has been OK.

My Ferret started making dreadful noises and sounded like it was losing a bearing in the engine. I found that one of the exhaust manifold gaskets had blown and the noise was gases "popping" through the leak. On removal the gaskets where found to be simply metal/tin only and had corroded. I fitted copper/asbestos gaskets supplied by Richard Bannister, no more problems. The tin plate gaskets are useless. I do find however that I need to regularly check the brass manifold stud nuts as these do love to work lose.

Brakes

Does anyone know the secret of the hex head adjusters, I can turn these as much as you like but they never seem to engage with the cogs on the adjuster mechanism. This appears to be a common problem so I suspect there is a solution.

Spark Plugs

What type are OK? I was sold a set at Beltring apparently for the Ferret and they are totally different to the ones fitted! The army classification is useless what is needed is the manufacturers data as stamped on the plug body . The dealer shall remain nameless. This dealer also gave info on how to set up an intercom system using Clansman boxes, he was wrong again! I've given a drawing of how I set up my system and it works. There may be other ways to produce an intercom but this ones fine. no guarantees given but the boxes are readily available at shows. The cables have to be found and the 24V plug is the most difficult to find. On searching one dealer at Beltrings stock he offered me the wole lot for £20:00, but as there was over a ton of cables I declined!

On the subject of radios I have fitted a mix of Clansman and Larkspur (Cl3) being mindful of Home Office regs I do the following. I carry a cheap and cheerful SW radio placed in one of my internal bins. I tune this to a suitable station or morse site and when at shows this gives the effect to the public of working radios. It's a small point but it does enhance the vehicles display.



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Grease Nipples

I had real problems with one of my rear suspension pins, however much pressure I put on with the grease gun it would never take grease. The squeaks and groans when off roading caused many shouts of "grease it". My solution. Take a standard medical syringe attach a short flexible plastic pipe and a piece of rubber tube. Drill out a grease nipple to remove the ball and spring, fill the syringe with WD4O or similar and inject into the nipple. Keep the pressure on for a short while and the WD4O will work through the joint. After this procedure I found I could force the grease in, no more squeaks!

Carburettor Nuts and Starter Bolts.

Cut a 9/l6th open-end spanner in half, tape a piece of wire to it and you can just about reach the bolt underneath the starter motor after removing the exhaust manifold link tubes . For the Carb manifold nuts it gives easier access. Tie off the wire to a suitable point and when you drop the spanner it's easily retrieved. As a second point access to the bottom starter bolt via the hull cover plate may be possible, I have dinky hands but I very nearly got my hand stuck. Imagine call to fire brigade by distraught wife "My husbands got his hand stuck up a Ferret"! "Try the RSPCA". The advice on accessing the bottom bolt was given by a Ferret club member, I shall not name and shame him!

On carb issues I do have one slight problem. The engine is a first time starter, runs perfectly and no other problem. The issue is that when you remove the gas the vehicle will not settle to idle, it generally revs at about l000rpm. If you switch off the engine and restart it a normal idle of around 500/600 is obtained. I thought it may be a sticky linkage but no problems found. About 3 years ago I had to replace all the carb diaphragms and I understand that there is a correct way to set them up, any ideas? I think the problem may be that one of the diaphragms may not be closing and so I may be getting to much fuel under idle conditions. When the engine is switched off pressure to the carb is removed and the diaphragm may close giving the correct idle on restarting.

Rear View Mirrors

I wanted to try to remove some of the blind spots so apart from moving the wing mirrors around to suit. I did the following. Purchase one or two of the suction cup mounting rear view mirrors as used on windscreens. Halfords sell them. Glue the suction cup with Araldite to the hull at the side of the driver's brow pad. If you set this up correctly a quick glance up will give a view otrt of the rear ports. The view may be slightly offset,but this as an aid to safety really works.

Cut out switches

My batteries always used to flat 'cos. I kept leaving the radios on. I got one of the motor sport battery kill switches and did the following. On the battery box (n/s) there is a vent hole near the top front of the box. Put the switch through this and after drilling a couple of holes bolt to the batterv box. Break one of the battery lines and terrninate on the switch. Due to the Ferrets alternator arrangement my set-up prevents starting unless the ignition switch is on but if you switch off the engine will stay running until you switch off the ignition. Anyway with the removable key from the cut-off switch it will prevent theft. Funny thing is that switch the ignition on without operating the kill switch the engine will not start. This is not the full



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arrangement that the MVT are suggesting, but I found their premise for introducing a kill svvitch dubious to say the least. The basic fact is that sensible driving is the best way to prevent accidents.

Gearbox Oil Seal

The oil seal fitted to the pump cover on the gearbox-input shaft is prone to failure. Beware of some NOS seals they may have hardened in storage. I fitted a new one after losing all my gearbox oil on the M25. The seal was sold to me by one of the big dealers, after fitting it leaked! When I obtained another seal from a different dealer I found that the rubber vvas nice and supple. The first seal was hard and had cracked on fitment. The moral of this is check! Having to remove the gearbox twice is a pain for the sake of a £1.50 seal.

On the gearbox removal issue it is possible with care to in situ lever it back enough to just get at the oil pump cover. Beware when doing this as the brake lines run under the gearbox and a lack of caution will cause damage to the pipes. There might just be enough space to remove the fluid flywheel. It is easier if you raise the back end of the gearbox. On my MK 1 I do this by placing a short length of scaffold pole across the top of the hull and then use a Web strap with a tie down ratchet as used on HGV's for securing loads.

On the subject of oils . Make sure that the bevel box relief/breather valves operate, they tend to get painted over. When the oil pressure builds up under heat the boxes will start to leak at the oil seal on the input pinion. I've also found that overflling a bevel box causes these seals to leak.

Alloy rims

When you replace or take off a wheel you will see that metal swarf will come off the stud hole as you tighten the wheel nuts. In fact this may cause enlargement of the hole. I try to avoid as much as possible removing the wheels to prevent any further damage. If the damage gets too great I suspect a new rim will be required.

Some people say they do not replace the rubber beadlock as this is difficult, It can be done using a good tyre lever and persistence. I was a tyre lever few years back and it consists of a l.Om bar with flattened ends and a pivot bar under the flats. It is made by Dunlop and I believe it was designed for use on heavy trucks, I have never seen another! It is also very good for wheel replacement and makes this a one-man job.

On The issue of run-flats, I drove 68 miles on a flat tyre and did not even notice it. no problems with steering brakes etc.

I now use an 8 tonne bottle jack for lifting, I was giv'en a 5 tonne item and my ferret on lifting burst the jack!

It looks at some point in the future trak-grip 900-16's may be unavailable, could you fit a 900-16 bar-grip or other. I have spoken to several people and the evidence is inconclusive.

While I'm on the subject does anyone have an easy way of getting the tyres off the rim? I generally lever them off having split the rim. The outer dish usually comes off reasonably easily but the "pot" can be a real swine. I have had one come off in a few minutes and also some which have taken a couple of days of effort with a long crowbar! I once tried cutting a tyre off and regretted it I was pulling rubber shavings out of my hair for a days!



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Engine Compartment Brace

If you remove the large tubular cross brace across the hull it can be a devil to realign. I found I could not drive the cotter bolt through. If you jack up the Ferret under the hull adjacent to the vheel station I have found the weight of the wheel/ suspension vill distort the hull enough by use of the jack to replace the pin. I assume that when the cross brace is removed initially the hull distorts slightly.

Manuals

Recently I saw an article stating that Rolls can supply a B60 manual for around the £25.00 mark. I have tried them, very courteous, as you would expect from Rolls, but no knowledge of any manual being available. I may try writing to them. They can however supply manuals for all their big turbine engines i.e. Olympus etc, I did not ask for a costing!

I have virtually all the Ferret Manuals and parts schematics but an engine manual would be useful. If anyone wants a copy of a specific manual I can provide copies to some extent, give me a call and I'll try to oblige.

Finally

The moral of a number of these tales is that dealers can be pretty clueless and will tell any story to sell there stock, there is a lot of knowledge out there with owners and now with web sites like "Ferret Heaven" this is being shared. I haven't got an axe to grind with dealers but if as part of selling their wares they are going to give advice it needs to be correct.

As the Ferreting season has arrived do any of the Herts and Beds members fancy meeting up for say a Saturday or Sunday at some mutually agreed hostelry in the SW HertsBeds area. If it's a yes give me a call and we can get something scheduled. If not I will see you atl at Beltring. And on the subject of Beltring there where around 35+ Ferrets on site last year, I reckon we got about 12 into the arena. If a suitable slot exists this year let's try to get them all in, it would look pretty impressive!

If anyone wants to call me on any Ferreting matters please do feel free to give me a call.

Tim Bunker
014-12-211610 (Hemel Hempstead)


tim.bunker@hotmail.com





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10863 pic


Parts required

1) Headsets or intercom helmets                                                2 off

2) Headset extension cable with pressel switch                          2 off (5965-99-620-5667)

3) Audio box                                                                                       1 off (5895-99-117-4911)

4) Box Three Radio                                                                          1 off (5820-99-117-6110)

5) Cable (box to box)                                                                          1 off

6) 24V power lead                                                                          1 off



Instructions

a) Fit boxes to hull as required

b) Link Audio box (harness) to Three Radio Box (actic)

c) Connect headsets via extension cables to 2 outlets on audio box

d) Connect 24V power lead to vehicle supply and Three Radio box.

e) Set switches on Audio bosc to IC (adjust other controls to desired level)



Note: The Audio Box is labelled "Crew box two set" (control comm system) I suspect other audio botes could be used possibly allowing more than two headsets to be employed.



Page 15

10864 pic




13/03/2001

Andrew Noyce
1 Fordington Villas,
Station Lane,
Chandlers Ford,
Hampshire
S053 4DE,

Dear Andrew,

It was pleasing to receive the latest newsletter, and after reading some of the articles I thought that it was time I put finger to key.

First to answer the question about the small bar that protrudes below the spare wheel. (There should be a hole drilled through it) this is the point at which a small chain was attached with one end touching the ground, and the other end of the chain leading into the hull was an HT lead. This in turn was attached to a Centurion ignition booster coil, when in very damp conditions (ie riots with water cannon) if the crowds got to near to the Ferret the commander would turn on the booster coil and send an HT belt to anyone with their feet on the ground and a hand on the vehicle (these are great for keeping the kids off at shows).

Next I move on to Ferrets getting stuck, with over 11 years Ferreting, I have only managed to bog a Ferret in once. I use my Ferrets on army exercise as much as I do at shows. This I feel is putting the old wagon's back into service, I normally get the job of being the enemy forces, it was on one such exercise (I'm swinging the lamp now!) 2 years ago, I was attached to a platoon of the Gurkas who were playing the enemy infantry, their officer had driven off in a landie in the dark off road on the training area and become bogged in a ditch. At first light I was asked to go and see if I could pull it out with the Ferret (by the way I am normally part of the REME lad) before the morning attack. I checked out the ground, it seemed ok for the ferret, so we approached the landrover from behind, as it was nose down in the ditch. We attached the tow chain, I hopped back in the drivers seat, selected reverse and first, popped the GCP and had a sinking feeling as the Ferret sank a foot. The surface of the ground was solid but below it was a bog, as the article in the newsletter states; we were now sitting on our belly plate. We had no time now to recover either vehicles before the good guys came to wipe us baddies out so the Ferret became an armoured machine gun post. You will see that I have enclosed photo after the attack with my crew mate still playing dead on a well bogged wagon. We had to dig the old wagon out , placing timber, sandbags, branches and the odd Gurka under the wheels at the same time jacking the vehicle up (using the removable engine deck) after



Page 16

about 45 minutes we were out and on the road again. (There was a winch wagon available if we wanted to call on it, but it would of cost me a lot of beers in the bar latter.

Just as a point of interest for the number spotters (as I am one), the vehicle that I used on this exercise was OOCA94, it is most famous for a picture of it on Saltau training area in the snow with the commander trying to take out a Cent with a 3.5 rocket launcher.

On another matter not wishing to blow my own trumpet (but trying to drum up some work) I was made redundant from the MOD last year and have set up a company doing military vehicle restoration. I have a large stock of base Ferrets which I am slowly selling on in a restored state plus a few spare. I also have over 11 years experience on ferret restorations, (theres not a job I have not done and a knuckle I haven't scraped) and over 20 years on military vehicles. so if I can offer help to anyone just call, (advice is free, hands on work costs)

I have also included some pictures of the standard that a basic Ferret goes through.

I hope that all this waffle has not been to much to wade through and that you can pluck a few bits and pieces out for the next newsletter. I have lots more Ferreting stories to tell ranging from taking one to the USA and being knocked off the road by a truck to driving Ferrets on fire. As well as living out of one for 2 weeks on Otterburn training area (but that's another story)
Best regards

Shaun Hindle

"ROSE COTTAGE".18 SEAMERE RD. HINGHAM, NORWICH, NRR9 4LW.

01953 851690 / 0771532 0581

email Shaun.Hindle@btinternet.com



Page 17

    Ferret Collection as of 13/03/2001


MIL.REG MK. COMMENTS
O6EB71 2/7.This vehicle is see on the back cover of "Military Vehicles of the World" in use with 1 Para.
02BB672/4
08BB462/4
09BB732/4
O9BB182/4
OOCAO12/4
OOCA942/4Again a famous Ferret, it is seen in many books with the commander enGaging a Centurion MBT with a 3.5 inch rocket launcher from the turret,
OOCAO42/4
O1 CAS21/1 Pictures of this vehicle have appeared in books showing it in serice in Aden
01CA37 2/4
02CA35 2/4
03BA37 1/1
00BA6S 1/1
30BA93 1/1
GKL/GKN Harimau


Most of my collection is waiting restoration. But they will all be done in good time. I have had about 70 Ferrets through my hands in the last 11 years. I have kept a log of their numbers and where they went to, plus also a record of any vehicles that I have come across when I have been out and about on different training areas. If any body in the Club is trying to compile a list of numbers get them to give me a ring.

Shaun Hindle

There is more to the newsletter than what appears here, left out of this internet version of the newsletter is the membership list of Ferret club owners.
If I included everything, why would you bother joining the club and paying for the newsletter?

 

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